There's not really a safe way to get a tan—any tan is a sign of sun damage, the kind of thing that causes skin damage, wrinkles, and cancer. Trying to getting a safe tan is like trying to order the healthiest burger from McDonald’s. What you’re actually seeking is the “least harmful” version of the thing you love. And that’s totally fair. As a pale winter person, I long for even a slight amount of pigment in my skin. But a little solar power goes a long way—but so does a little UV damage.
A single sunburn can exponentially increase your odds of skin cancer. And it makes you look older. “[Approximately] 90% of the aging changes that we see in patients’ skin, especially the skin of the face, is due to ultraviolet radiation from the sun,” says Dr. Ben Lee of Wave Plastic Surgery Center in Irvine, CA. He adds to that this alternate perspective on tanning: “I think it is important for patients to understand that tanning results from your body’s attempt to protect the skin from the cellular damage to the skin caused by ultraviolet radiation. The melanin the skin produces in response to sunlight is what produces a tan, but it is also an indication that the skin has suffered injury from sun exposure.”
Oof. So, what’s the best way to get a safe tan? (Or rather, the least damaging tan?) We summoned a little wisdom from Dr. Lee, as well as Dr. Azza Halim of Azza MD in Boca Raton, FL. Both reside in sunny locales, and advise patients frequently on safe sun exposure. Their intel should go a long way and having your sun-soaked cake, and eating it, too. (But maybe just a sliver of a slice.)
No surprises here: Both doctors emphasize the importance of wearing sunscreen, head to toe—on any areas exposed to the sun. And use SPF 30 as your baseline. Even then, SPF isn’t the factor that blocks UVA rays, which are what is responsible for tanning the skin. (UVB rays cause sunburn, while UVA rays cause tanning, but also “photo age” the skin, leading to wrinkles, sun spots, roughness, etc). Look for “broad-spectrum” SPF that will still bounce or absorb most of the UVA rays, too.
“Slather it over all areas of exposure, whether at the beach or out cycling, running, especially on thin skin areas that are more sensitive to burning, such as nose and eyes and neck,” says Halim. An average human frame should use about 1 oz. per application (the volume of a shot glass). Both doctors recommend reapplying every two hours, in accordance with industry recommendations. You should also reapply after any sweating, swimming, or abrasion (like towels or physical wiping). This is the only way to stay thoroughly protected while enjoying sun exposure.
Don’t mistake water-resistant or sport sunscreens as entirely waterproof, either: “The FDA no longer allows manufacturers to label any sunscreen as ‘waterproof’, as this is actually impossible to achieve,” says Lee. Many will now claim provide up to 80 minutes of exposure to moisture, but should be reapplied after getting wet.
If you’re sprawled out under the sun, don’t forget to turn over often. On the one hand, you’re doing this in order to achieve an even tan. But as Lee points out, it also ensures that no part of your body receives too much direct exposure in one sitting.
Lee advises his patients to seek sun at off-peak hours, if possible. That is to say, the sun is strongest between 10:00am and 4:00pm at the height of summer. “This is when the skin receives the maximum ultraviolet energy,” he says.
“Just twenty minutes on a tanning bed is the equivalent of spending several hours under the midday sun without applying any tanning lotion,” Lee says.
Halim adds: “Tanning beds and lamps actually emit three times more UV than the sun, and penetrate deeper than sun, therefore the damage is much more magnified.”
That’s a high price to pay for a winter glow.
Anyone who wants to “tan safely”, should be in the habit of seeing the dermatologist on an annual basis. Have your doctor check any moles or irregularities, to catch potential cancerous cells before they spread elsewhere. “Skin cancers as a group (basal cell, squamous cell, and melanoma) represent the most common form of cancer,” says Lee. “By the age of 70, one in five Americans will develop one of these cancers. The morbidity and mortality from these skin cancers can be dramatically reduced by early detection.”
Halim adds that sunglasses play an equally important role on a day under the sun: “Constant UV exposure can contribute or increase risk of cataract formation at any age.” It's the perfect time to pick up a new pair.
For starters, SPF 60 is not twice as good as SPF 30.
